A vast plain of flat land nestles itself in a valley in Bulgaria’s north, not far from the border with Serbia. The valley serves as a perfect place for farmland, one of the few flat areas amidst Bulgaria’s jagged and rough terrain. On the slopes of the Balkan Mountains sits a town, seemingly unremarkable at first glance. However, as you peer further up toward the sky, you’ll see jagged, piercing rock formations reaching skyward, and nestled among these natural daggers is an ancient fortress: Belogradchik Fortress. So, is Belogradchik worth visiting? Let me assure you that it is.
Belogradchik is a lesser-known destination for backpackers and tourists visiting Bulgaria. Many have never heard of it, and even fewer know how to get there. It’s just far enough to make you question whether it’s worth the trip, yet close enough to manage as a day trip—especially if you have a car, which cuts the travel time to about 2.5 hours. Public transport, however, makes an overnight stay a more practical option.
The Journey
My friends and I decided to take the train from Sofia Central. Although we heard rumours of a bus, detailed information was scarce. Two train options were available: a direct route or one with a transfer. The time difference between them was negligible, so we opted for the one with a connection.
On a warm afternoon, we found ourselves seated in a cabin on an old, rickety train that felt as though it might fall apart at any moment. This sensation was amplified as the train set off at a snail’s pace—any faster, and it seemed it might crumble entirely.
Despite its slow speed, the journey was mesmerizing. The train snaked through valleys and mountains, passing quiet towns that stood in sharp contrast to the bustling streets of Sofia.
Our train required a connection in Mezdra. After a brief wait, we boarded an older, open-carriage-style train that stopped at every single station. The ride felt interminably slow.
During this leg of the journey, my friend called the hotel to arrange a taxi. Using his broken Bulgarian, he managed to secure confirmation, though we could only hope it would actually arrive.
We arrived in the quiet town of Oreshets, the closest station to Belogradchik. Inside the station, we waited until an elderly man popped his head in and asked if we were heading to Belogradchik. Thankfully, the hotel had indeed sent a taxi. His car, cluttered with random objects, barely fit the four of us and our rucksacks. He proceeded to drive over the mountain that separates Oreshets from Belogradchik, hurtling around sharp corners on a winding road with little to no guardrails. Evidence of past crashes dotted the road. I gripped my seat tightly the entire way. I hoped that this trip to Belogradchik would be worth it.
Exploring Belogradchik
We arrived at night to a small, serene town clinging to the mountainside. After settling into our hotel, we didn’t explore much until the next morning.
Waking early, we headed up the hill. All roads seemed to lead upward, culminating at the fortress gates. The first sight upon entering was a picturesque field that led toward the towering rock formations. From this vantage point, stunning views of the town and the valley beyond unfolded.
Peering over the fortress walls, we could see the second gate below, with a staircase zigzagging up a hill toward a third gate wedged between two massive rock pillars. This gate stood in stark contrast to the azure sky, like a fortress built into the heavens.
As we climbed through the third gate, more rock formations and staircases awaited us. The ascent continued until we reached a steep ladder leading to the final rocks. Atop the mesa, a panoramic view revealed itself: the entire valley, the Balkan Mountains, and a breathtaking expanse of blue sky and vibrant green landscape.
The scene was magical. We lingered for a long time, soaking in the beauty and exploring the fortress’s nooks and crannies. But caution is advised, as there are no railings here to prevent a potentially dangerous fall.
The fortress itself held other treasures: bunkers and rooms, remnants of its ancient past. These dim, haunting spaces seemed to resist our entry with their eerie darkness.
After half a day of exploration, we descended, leaving the fortress but taking its magic with us. The experience was unforgettable, from the breathtaking views to the sense of history etched into every corner. I could have stayed there for years, simply absorbing the view.
Back in town, we dined at a restaurant perched on a hill opposite the fortress. With a cold beer in hand and food on the table, we relaxed, staring at the fortress and the rocks, savouring every moment.
This is why I wholeheartedly recommend visiting Belogradchik.
Practical Information
Getting There and Back
- Train: The journey takes just over 5 hours via the direct train or one with a transfer in Mezdra. It’s a long trip, so pack food and drinks, and consider staying the night in Belogradchik. Take the train to Oreshets station, then arrange a taxi to Belogradchik. Check the Bulgarian Rail website here
- Bus: Information on buses is inconsistent. Some travel blogs mention it, but details are vague. If you’re feeling adventurous, check Sofia’s main bus station.
- Car: Renting a car makes this trip easily doable in a day.
Where to Eat
- Mechana Markashnitsa: Located near the town square, this restaurant offers traditional Bulgarian cuisine and cold beer. The ambience is charming, with a quaint beer garden and a cosy, traditional interior. However, the food was underwhelming compared to other Bulgarian towns.
- Кафе-сладкарница “Космос”: Situated in the town square, this cafe serves hot drinks and baked goods, including the classic Bulgarian banitsa.
- Mislen Kamak: While the food here is average, the restaurant’s standout feature is its stunning view of the fortress and rocks. Dine outside and enjoy a cold beer while taking int he spectacular view.
What to Do
There isn’t much to do in Belogradchik except for visiting the fortress but there are a few extras.
- Belogradchik Fortress and Rock: Make the climb up for spectacular views of the area. Read about the history and local legends with information scattered within the fortress.
- Natural History Museum: Step into the museum to learn about the area’s natural history and Europe.
- Hiking Trails: There are so many trails to hike in the area taking you round and past many different rock formations.
- Look at Street Art: Many of the electrical boxes around the town have been painted with varying things from scenery to Bulgarian Folklore.