Introduction
Hokkaido is Japan’s most northern island and the newest, as the Island wasn’t part of Japan until the 1800s. Before the Meiji Restoration, the island was mostly home to the indigenous Ainu people. The Ainu are a separate ethnicity and language from the Japanese of Honshu. During the 1800s the Japanese finalised its colonisation of the island, as a result, this leaves Hokkaido with an interesting aesthetic and feel. Cities designed completely new giving the island a feeling of the new world of Japan. Large grid cities with historic buildings resembling many built in America or Australia in the 1800s and 1900s. The island offers a large expanse of nature as most of the population lives in Sapporo, Japan’s 3rd biggest city. Read this article for information and a brief idea of the top places to visit in West Hokkaido.
Top Places to Visit in West Hokkaido
Sapporo
The capital of Hokkaido and the third biggest city in Japan. If looking for top places to visit in Hokkaido then Sapporo will always be on top. Don’t come if you’re hoping to visit temples, shrines and castles like in Kyoto or Tokyo, this modern city boasts other great wonders from colonial-style buildings to beautiful parks. Visit for the food, nightlife, and as a gateway to the rest of the island.
Nakajima Park
Nakajima Park is south of the centre. I went in Autumn so the trees had all changed colour. Walking through the park with the trees bursting with gold, amber, and red was a treat. You can also see Hoei Kan, a historic hotel built in 1881.
Sapporo Beer Museum
Visit the Sapporo Beer Museum. The free museum lets you learn about the history of Sapporo beer, one of my favourite Japanese beers. Walk through the informative exhibition to learn about the beer’s beginnings. Afterwards, I went to the restaurant and bar they have in what appears to be a beer hall setting. While here I tried Hokkaido’s famous jingisukan (Genghis Kahn). This is essentially Japanese yakiniku but with lamb or mutton.
Odori Park & Clock Tower
Visit Odori Park, a nice central park with fountains and benches. The TV tower is at the end of the park. You can ride up to the top for a fantastic view of downtown. The view from the top stretches down the park, and the mountains around the city are visible in the background. Nearby is also the clock tower, an American-designed wooden building from 1878 that was part of the original agriculture university. It houses a small museum inside to learn about Sapporo of the past.
Mount Moiwa
If you want a great view of the whole city then the Mount Moiwa observation deck can’t be missed. Take a tram to the Moiwa ropeway to jump on a vernacular up the mountain. Once at the top enjoy a great view of the city and its surroundings and watch the sunset.
Susukino
This is Saporo’s nightlife district. As Japan’s 3rd biggest city, the nightlife district is a must. There are many 24-hour bars and eateries to visit on a night out. Visit modern bars or smokey izakayas and enjoy what the city has to offer. Visit a club until the early hours and grab a bowl of ramen at 5 am on the way home.
Otaru
Otaru makes a great day trip from Sapporo. Even though it is a city, the centre feels more like a small town and many attractions are condensed in this area. Otaru is a port city and the effects of the fishing industry are noticeable. The city boasts various attractions. In the past, the city had industries for music boxes, glass, and sake, which can be learned about in different museums. The canals that run through the centre show off the picturesque charm of the city and make for a relaxing day trip. One thing not to miss is the seafood. Hokkaido has many great eateries and a lot of food on offer. Sushi or kaisendon (seafood bowl, 海鮮丼) is a must-try food here in Otaru. When I visited I went to a restaurant called Poseidon. The kaisendon had a huge range of fresh seafood piled on it and was good value for money. Try to get one with uni (sea urchin).
Noboribetsu and Hell Valley (Jingokudani)
Noboribetsu is a small city on the coast of Hokkaido, south of Sapporo. The city itself is nice and known for its hot springs, however, the main attraction is further up the valley in a small town known as Noboribetsu Onsen. However when talking about Noboribetsu, the majority of people will be talking about the onsen town in the valley. The town is next to Jingokudani, which translates as hell valley, a boiling sulfuric crater made from volcanic activity, the smell sticks in the air as you traverse the rugged landscape. This is a place not to be missed and one of the best places I visited in Hokkaido. The town boasts many onsen and hot springs and is a perfect place to relax. The valley has various hiking trails through the volcanic park.
Hike through the Volcanic Park
The hiking trails take you to various areas and are fun to explore. I wondered without a destination and discovered Oynuma Pond after climbing a hill and down the side of the cliffs. There are long and short routes through the volcanic landscape which will either take you by more sulfuric areas or past warm streams and rivers that you can relax and dip your feet into.
There is plenty to do for a two or three day trip here. After hiking the valley you can relax back at the onsen in the hot spring baths. Soak and relax, eat a good meal and take it easy. The town won’t have much in the way of nightlife as it’s a quiet and relaxing place, there weren’t any bars open when I visited in October.
Bear Mountain
A ropeway from the town access a bear park that sits on the summit of ‘bear mountain’. The bear park is interesting as you can see the brown bears native to Hokkaido that differ from Japan’s black bears. You can also purchase food to feed the bears. The park contains a traditional Ainu village with Ainu houses. One of many such ‘Ainu attractions’ around Hokkaido.
The top attraction of the area is the view. a clear panoramic view of Lake Kuttara, a caldera lake that sits high within the Shikotsu-Toya National Park. the spectacular view of the lake, surrounded by the high walls of its crater that cages it in, while the sea looks peaceful in the background is a photo opportunity that can’t be missed.
Hakodate
Hakodate is the third biggest city in Hokkaido but was the first settlement of the Japanese. The Kono clan built a fort here in 1454 as the first beginnings of Japanese colonisation of the island until the 1800s when they pushed further. The city was a strategic port for the Japanese empire for a long time and was one of the first ports opened to foreigners during the Meiji Restoration. As the port was one of five in Japan open to foreigners, this meant many foreigners settled in the city. The city is small and compact with most sights situated on the isthmus leading to Hakodate Yama. All this makes it one of the top places to visit in the whole of Hokkaido.
Motomachi
Take a walk through Motomachi, the historical old town, to see the influences of foreign settlement. Many old consulates were built here in the 1800s and some churches such as the Russian Orthodox church, a Roman Catholic church and the Episcopal church. Make sure to check out the old British consulate which has been converted into a museum, you can learn about the opening of the port and settling of foreign consulate staff with a selection of photos of historical Hakodate.
Red Brick Warehouses
Walk down from Motomachi to the harbour to check out the Red-Brick Warehouse district. The area is a popular historical area and the images of the warehouses are synonymous with Hakodate. Originally built in the early 1900s and restored later, the warehouses stand out brightly facing the water. This area has a variety of nice cafes and eateries too and can make a nice area to relax in.
Fort Goryokaku
Other great places include Fort Goryokaku, a Western-style star fort built in 1864. The Fort contains a large complex that is mostly used as a park and is filled with sakura trees, which in spring will bloom into colourful pink flowers. Nearby is also Goryokaku Towe, a great viewing platform for a birds-eye view of the fort.
Hakodate Yama
You can also take a cable car up to the top of Hakodate Yama where the view of Hakodate stretches out across the isthmus and into Hokkaido. Definitely come for the view of the sunset.
Onuma-Quasi National Park
If you want to experience more of Hokkaido’s nature but are restricted on time or by transport then take a train at Hakodate to Onuma-Quasi National Park. The train drops you off in a small village and you can explore the forested area surrounding Lake Onuma on foot or rent a bicycle. The park is very peaceful and has a variety of bridges crossing some of the islands on the lake.
This should give you a great idea of the top places to visit in Western Hokkaido.
Hokkaido has a lot to offer a traveller for a week or more. I was only here for 5 days and managed to cram plenty of activities and sights in. I used the trains to travel between all the cities as they all have easy connections, except for Sapporo and Noboribetsu where it was easier to take a coach. The train from Noboribetsu to Hakodate runs right around Uchiura Bay and if you sit on the left side you have a great sea view.
The Ainu
If, like me at the time of visiting, you didn’t know much about the indigenous population of Hokkaido, then there are plenty of cultural attractions to visit. One new large centre is the Upopoy National Ainu Museum and Park where you can learn about various aspects of the Ainu. There is a collection of museums and cultural centres spread throughout the island. Learning about the Ainu at one of the various centres is a top thing to do in Hokkaido.
I visited the Sapporo Ainu Culture Promotion Centre. The centre features a traditional village and a museum. The museum contains a large collection of cultural artefacts. One of the museum workers that I talked to was Ainu and it houses a lot of Ainu art in a small gallery and jewellery made by Ainu people. If you visit the centre, be aware that even though it is in Sapporo, it is quite far outside the city and will take a long bus ride, but is doable.
Another great museum is in Hakodate, the Hakodate City Museum of Northern Peoples. This museum was fascinating and contained a lot of artefacts and information about various Northern cultures from East Siberia, Kamchatka and north of Hokkaido, areas now within Russia and parts of Alaska. The museum was informative and I learned a lot about the various indigenous cultures that no longer exist or are highly endangered.
Hokkaido is a great place to learn about these often unknown or forgotten cultures and I highly recommend visiting the museums to learn more.